miércoles, diciembre 12, 2012

La Belleza Natural


¿Qué es exactamente lo natural? Es, sin duda, una buena pregunta. Las revistas de moda proclaman que llega el reinado de lo natural (que es ir maquillado para que no lo parezca e ir arreglado como si lo hubieras escogido a ojos cerrados) y, al tiempo, cualquiera se pregunta si lo natural no es, precisamente, producirse. Heidegger y Ortega tuvieron grandes discusiones sobre si la esencia del hombre era la técnica y sobre el tema ecologista -"verde"- que hoy tanto nos preocupa. Al final, en lo único que se pusieron de acuerdo en los años cuarenta, tras la II Guerra Mundial, fue en que la técnica no es un fin, sino un medio. No cuenta nada por sí misma pero la técnica es la verdadera esencia del ser humano.

Al margen de las reflexiones filosóficas sobre lo que el teutón dijo en aquella conferencia sobre el habitar, el construir y el pensar y lo que el español le respondió, la cuestión, tan antigua como el mundo, es si existe lo natural, el estado cero, la raíz de lo que somos. 

En el mundo de la moda se anhela la auténtica belleza. La belleza sincera y honesta porque, como decía Baudelaire, la crítica tiene que ser pasional y parcial porque si no ni es crítica ni es nada. La crítica artística ha quedado así encallada en el curso de los tiempos como el juicio sobre la verdad, la bondad y la belleza de algo: un objeto, algo abstracto -una película, una melodía...- o, incluso, una persona. 

¿Y por qué no?

Es curioso lo que dicen las imágenes de nosotros. Aunque todos anhelamos la belleza verdadera, a veces nos perdemos en la artificiosidad y en la técnica como fin. Quizá el ejemplo más claro sea el de Kate Moss. Cuando apareció en The Face, desnudita en las campañas de Calvin Klein, toda huesos, piel y perfume, era tan sincera que dolía. Tenía una cara monísima, un cuerpecito de escándalo con los huesos de la cadera ideales para el placer y era fresca, precisamente lo que vendía el americano, fresca como la ropa de interior y sencilla. Sin trampa ni cartón. Una chica flaca, mona y con el toque mágico que hace que algo sea excepcional. Sin embargo, a finales de los 90s -en 1999 se tiñó el pelo de un rosa insufrible- se fue haciendo autoconsciente de sí misma y produciéndose. Los niveles de producción de la vida de Kate Moss han llegado a su colapso a día de hoy en que no es más que una mala modelo, un icono en sus horas bajas, que publica a la desesperada sus memorias y que firma colecciones para TopShop que han hecho que sus ingresos se multipliquen. Se ha casado, ha salido en Vogue USA con el último vestido diseñado por Galliano y no sabemos de ella nada interesante. Incluso ha dejado de ser un style icon. Hay otros más nuevos y más frescos. 

En la imagen, esta con Carolyn Bessette Kennedy casada con el hijo del presidente Kennedy y toda una estrella fulgurante de lo natural. A Carolyn le llamaban la mujer de negro porque siempre vestía de ese color y forma parte de la historia de la moda cuando se casó con aquella columna de seda blanca de Narciso Rodríguez en 1996. Tenía un yate, mucho estilo y un atractivo que no era el europeo de Moss sino el de los Hamptons americanos y la vida de los anuncios de Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger y Calvin Klein. Más americana, imposible. 

En la imagen, ambas están en la cúspide de su belleza. Sin embargo, frente a la mirada algo huidiza de la Kennedy, no muy aficionada a las fotos y auténticamente sorprendida, la de Moss es preparada: pone su famosa pose de la boca abierta (aunque aquí aún enseñaba los dientes), la cabeza echada para atrás y ojos seductores. Es, además, mucho más guapa que Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. Y, sin embargo, yo solo tengo ojos para la "otra". A la que ya no recordamos porque murió de repente. 

19 comentarios:

Alexa dijo...

No me llama la atención Kate Moss, aunque tuvo su influencia, dio paso a un tipo de modelo con menos curvas de las que tenían las top del momento.

Qué casualidad, en mi última entrada también aparece Carolyn Bessette Kennedy en versión más blanca. El aspecto de Carolyn era típicamente americano, dicen que Calvin Klein la contrató por su parecido con su modelo favorita Elaine Irwin. En cuanto a su naturalidad, es un poco relativa, cuando se ven sus fotos ochenteras y de los primeros 90 se ve que sufrió una metamorfosis. En la foto que has puesto lleva unas mechas discretas, pero a partir de su boda cada vez se fue volviendo más rubia y más delgada. La impresión que daban en sus fotos juntos Carolyn y John (sobre todo él) era de haber cogido lo primero que han encontrado en el armario, pero creo que todo estaba muy estudiado.

MásQueRopa dijo...

una buena luz hace milagros tb

sí al sí quiero dijo...

Un post muy interesante ¡Nos ha encantado! Es cierto que se ha perdido esa belleza natural que debería reinar en el mundo de la moda.

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Elisa dijo...

Cuánta razón :)

variopaint dijo...

Bueno, creo que lo natural - en si mismo - no existe cómo un concepto estético, ya que la estética procede de la inteligencia, que es el mayor artificio conocido. Otra cuestión es que la cosa parezca como “natural” algo que viene a ser la culminación de la artificiosidad. El mundo natural no es bello ni deja de serlo, pues la belleza es una condición estética y moral que el hombre impone a las cosas (o las personas entendidas como forma, es decir, como cosas).

Esta reflexión no suele hacerse, por su incomodidad, ya que se supone que la belleza (externa) supone la dotación inmediata de una belleza moral (interna) mediante un razonamiento tan antiguo que está en la misma base del tiempo del hombre.

Presentas dos víctimas de esa idea en el post, la primera es la de una modelo que se ha convertido en algo ya vulgar por su exhibicionismo y sus excesos, y que según Lucien Freud que la retrató (una pintura excelente, en mi opinión) era algo imposible para trabajar con ella.

La Bessette es otro caso notorio de estupidez - que por cierto la llevaría a la muerte. No se le ocurrió otra cosa que posponer un vuelo a Los Hampton para esperar a su hermanita que estaba haciendo compras. Se les hizo de noche y la avioneta carecía de la instrumentación adecuada (y el hijo de Kennedy tampoco debía saber mucho de que iba aquello) de forma que apareció una pequeña tormenta y perecieron los tres en el mar, c’ est fini.

Aun así, existe gente que piensa que una apariencia posee (porque si) un fondo moral y si la apariencia es buena el fondo también, etc. Esa clase de gente coincide a veces con las que salen en esas clases de foto en guateques, ya también son los que alimentan la cultura del espectáculo, la moda y el consumo sobre los que está montado el negocio. Lo que ocurre es que las noches y las tormentas no entienden de eso, ya que son muy naturales, pero de verdad.

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